Mon, 25 May 2026 04:28:02 +0100 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/ Lussumo Vanilla 1.0.3 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18436 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18436 Fri, 15 May 2026 11:42:58 +0100 djh
We're considering getting a granite or quartz overlay rather than a full worktop replacement. Does anybody have any experience of these? What's your preference for replacing worktops?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12591 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12591 Fri, 26 Sep 2014 09:05:00 +0100 Triassic
I realise Panelvent is more permeable than OSB and this is to aid moisture movement, but I'm left wondering what part the external breather membrane plays and is it necessary?

Why have a high permeability board covered with a low permeability fabric?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18321 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18321 Sun, 20 Jul 2025 16:42:07 +0100 djh
Under the sink there's normal 40mm plastic waste fittings and the dishwasher screws onto an 'appliance trap' connection https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/domestic-appliance-traps-accessories/sink-trap-with-domestic-appliance-inlet/ I've unscrewed the fitting and removed the whole fitting on the left of the photo. I need a blanking cap that can be screwed on in place of that screw cap but I'm not sure what to buy? I bought a McAlpine T23U Multifit Blanking Plug White 40mm but that seems to be designed to fit onto a plain 40mm pipe, not onto a 40mm pipe with a male threaded end.

I'm curious if there's a cap that's designed to screw on in this situation, or do I just need a short length of plain 40mm pipe?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18289 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18289 Sat, 26 Apr 2025 20:43:46 +0100 djh
Anyway, one of them gets used a lot and the other much less. About five years ago, when they were five years old, the soft close mechanism on the lid failed, and it's surprisingly annoying having to relearn the art of closing a loo seat softly! I thought at the time their prices for a replacement were a bit steep, so I bought a cheap soft-close replacement somewhere and that fitted remarkably well but feels a bit flexible and 'cheap'. I put that on the little-used loo and moved its original seat to the more heavily-used one.

So another five years has passed and it feels like the soft close on the second Vitra seat is beginning to fail. The price has gone up even more, and I now have evidence that a new one would only last five years, so I'm reluctant to buy another from Vitra. But I would like a better quality then the previous replacement I bought (and I can't remember where I got it :cry: ).

So does anybody have any idea how or where to buy good loo seats to fit my loo?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18222 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18222 Fri, 25 Oct 2024 18:39:28 +0100 djh
edit to say: I just did a search and the Australian test appears to be of EPS *with* fire retardant, which is rather worrying. Details here: https://www.vba.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/134289/Rendered-Expanded-Polystyrene-EPS-Testing-Outcome.pdf]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18217 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18217 Mon, 14 Oct 2024 13:16:21 +0100 djh https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18119 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18119 Mon, 15 Apr 2024 17:56:06 +0100 djh
Getting an EV at last this week. Been looking at Octopus Intelligent Go and the way I read it you can get your cheap electricity at night as well as exporting during the day at fixed 15p per Kwh. Last time I looked into it you could not have both when you had outgoing tariff.
.
Seems win win if I read correctly. I would instinctively charge during the day using solar that would normally go to export but looks like best to export for 15p and buy back at 7.5p at night during the 6 hour slot. Seems to be to good to be true.

Anyone on here that can comment on it.?"]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18175 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18175 Sat, 17 Aug 2024 22:22:38 +0100 wookey I heard about them on the Zero Ambition podcast and they seem a very sound outfit. We've been very short of UK manufacture of natural insulation so it's good to see some happening.

I need to top up my loft and do some insulating around the eaves and some slightly-flexible woodfibre or hemp batts seems like a good material to use (move any moisture away from the joists and a bit of squishiness helps with the awkward shapes). But it does matter how easy it is to cut as I need to make diagonal 160mm cuts to make a wedge-shaped base piece.

I know sheepswool (Thermafleece) is extremely difficult to cut. Fluffy woodfibre is easy - solid woodfibre is more or less like timber. Semi-rigid rockwool batts are easy. I have no idea where hemp batts fall on this scale.
Looks like they have loft batts (IndiLoft) and flexible wall batts (IndiTherm) available now with semi-rigid boards coming any day now. The IndiTherm appears to be reasonably widely available already (e.g. from ecomerchant).

There is a youtube vid here showing cutting with a 'wavy edge' insulation saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoiPd8VM3bQ
I'm not familiar with those. That makes it look to me like it's harder to cut than soft woodfibre but easier than thermofleece, but it's quite hard to tell.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18165 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18165 Fri, 19 Jul 2024 18:07:06 +0100 djh
Any thoughts what the problem is? I'll dismantle the fan after dinner and hope to resolve it then, but I hoped somebody might have a suggestion as to what it is. Entertaining or useful suggestions welcome!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18084 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=18084 Thu, 08 Feb 2024 09:32:21 +0000 GreenApprentice
Here’s what I’m thinking:

Fit a door sensor to the internal door
Install an airtight mechanical vent in the porch that can be automatically opened based on humidity levels and when the door sensor is closed.

We’ll install an electric heater to dry damp coats etc, this will be manually controlled and we’ll leave the internal door open when in use to recycle the heat

I got excited when I read about Shelly devices on the ‘electric heating thread’ by @djh, but then saw that they can be fiddly. My hubby has used raspberry pi to do other automation tasks (not house related) that could be an option.

Wanted to get a view on any other methods people have used and if anyone has done something similar.

Also, I’ve looked for a mechanical vent but they all seem to be fans and don’t mention air tightness levels when closed. Would a fan type be recommended, perhaps it could have different settings (open, low fan, high fan) based on humidity level?

Any advice welcomed]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8338 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=8338 Thu, 29 Dec 2011 14:37:48 +0000 JT101
Here's a summary:
I’m happy with my new LED bulb, and only replaced my CFL since it actually blew a couple of weeks ago.
Costs around £10 / bulb, but should save around £50 / year for a typical household if all bulbs replaced (assuming 10 bulbs), with a payback of 1-2 years and saves around 270Kg CO2. Bulbs last approx 10-20years. Over next few years the cost will come down to pence rather than £’s]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=125 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=125 Wed, 21 Mar 2007 22:08:00 +0000 biffvernon
Continues from the old forum topic on Multifoil Insulation:

Start of thread:
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum/index2.php?DATEIN=tpc_wlpssdlpg_1142805843

End of thread:
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/forum/index2.php?DATEIN=tpc_wlpssdlpg_1142805843&LP=true]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17931 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17931 Wed, 23 Aug 2023 19:35:20 +0100 RobinB
Tangentially I'm considering a 60kWh vehicle (BYD Dolphin if you're wondering) with a ticket price of £31k and V2L (vehicle to load) facility.

So the car has 10x capacity of home battery and V2L functionality for only 5x the price? Plus I'd have a car. Can I just have a car?

Hmm. What am I missing? How will UK utilities handle V2L? Might I need a home battery as a staging post?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17924 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17924 Thu, 17 Aug 2023 08:52:44 +0100 GreenApprentice
I’ve bought some soudatight LQ (liquid membrane) to paint over the cracks in the plaster before we skim (there are a lot of cracks) and was considering using this over the wall to ceiling junction, which isn’t joined.

Would it be better to tape the junction, I can then paint the rest of the unfinished surface where the coving was with the soudatight before it’s replastered. I’m wondering how difficult it will be to tape the corners, I duct taped some doors to keep dust out and it was a very difficult-to-do-dogs-dinner. I’ve seen prefolded tape but they all seem to be for windows and doors or connecting membranes to surfaces.

The aim is to make the house airtight. Has anyone done something similar and can recommend a product?

Thanks in advance]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17851 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17851 Wed, 31 May 2023 20:58:38 +0100 djh https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17728 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17728 Wed, 01 Feb 2023 13:17:45 +0000 djh
I presently heat my house with an electrical post-heater in the MVHR duct (nominal 1.8 kW), plus a radiant heater by the front door (also 1.8 kW). Both are operated only at night as required, unless there are truly exceptional conditions. Hot water is provided from a thermal store that is heated by PV when available and backed up by a 3 kW mains immersion, again operated for a few hours overnight, when necessary.

I've looked at A2A heat pumps as being simplest and cheapest. I don't have any wet heating circuits. I thought about putting in just one indoor unit in the living room. But now I'm thinking that the MVHR post heater works by heating the air to 45°C and circulating it. I wonder if a single heat pump emitter can do that job? The front door heater is on the north side of the house and in an open lobby so it manages to heat up the colder part of the house a bit extra when necessary. How would I determine what I need?

I've also become aware of heat pump water heaters recently, so I've considered getting one. But the ones I've looked at seem to have the heat pump packed along with the tank and so have massive great air ducts to/from the tank. I don't fancy cutting big holes in my walls. The ones I've seen are also cylinders rather than thermal stores, so need annual inspections and more maintenance. Are there any products that provide the benefits without the costs and hassle?

I also happened to look at the boiler upgrade scheme - https://www.gov.uk/apply-boiler-upgrade-scheme - and was surprised to see that the eligibility conditions appear to include me. It says "replacing fossil fuel heating systems (such as oil, gas or electric)". Well my system is electric, so am I eligible? Does anybody know, before I "speak to an MCS certified installer"?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17718 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17718 Fri, 27 Jan 2023 18:04:08 +0000 djh
They are GLS lamps and supposedly have an efficiency of over 200 lm/W. I haven't heard of anything that high before.
https://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/crompton-lamps-ultra-efficient-led-gls-2.2w-b22-a-class-5-pack-warm-white-clear-40w-eqv-/

Whilst looking for further details I found another product I haven't seen before: T5 LED tubes intended for retrofitting in existing fittings (with the ballast bypassed). There are T8 tubes as well. e.g. https://www.cromptonlamps.com/Catalogue/LED/T5/LED-T5-Full-Glass-Tube-3ft-Direct-to-Mains-240V-AC-12W-4000K-G5-12097]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17674 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17674 Tue, 20 Dec 2022 21:09:05 +0000 chrisjackson184
Does anyone have any experience with 'Airex' smart air bricks, particularly in relation to suspended wooden floors?

https://www.airex.tech

They seem an interesting idea, but not sure how real the benefits would be or if there is a better way (without ripping up the floor to insulate).]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17637 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17637 Thu, 10 Nov 2022 15:10:29 +0000 TimSmall
The insulation type mostly EPS, but a few bits of render carrier board, and rockwool (for fire breaks) and thickness varies from wall to wall (e.g. cavity vs. solid).

The windows are all partly or wholly moved out into the plane of the insulation.

The render supplier has supplied window reveal beads (they stocked two types).

Before fitting the beads I was looking at the beads and didn't really think they'd be capable of accommodating much movement. One window is SW facing and pretty large (2.6 m high by 3.4 m wide), and this is in the thickest insulation (280mm).

I found this document from the German Association for Insulation Systems, Plaster and Mortar (VDPM):

https://de.calameo.com/read/00110231894f5dbc36809

"Ausbildung von Details mit Profilen und Fugendichtungsbändern bei Aussenputz und WDVS"

(Formation of details with profiles and joint sealing tapes for external render and ETICS)

Google Translate does a reasonable job on it, and there's an extract in English on this supplier's site as part of this catalogue (page 12):

https://www.ejot.de/medias/sys_master/Catalogues%20ETICS/cat-etics/h73/h0d/9230512685086/EJOT-cat-profile-2022-03-25-EN.pdf

... this says that we need high movement ("Class A") window reveal beads for most locations.

From looking at other manufacturers' catalogues, it looks like the beads we currently have here are probably "Class C" (with not much movement, and definitely not up to spec for the big window).

Any tips on any UK suppliers which might stock high movement "Class A" beads?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17612 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17612 Tue, 18 Oct 2022 13:59:41 +0100 Doubting_Thomas
Lo and behold Myenergi, who make the Eddi have just announced their 'Libbi' modular battery which looks like it might ease my concerns over compatibility and doubling up on diverters/inverters.

No word yet on costs but if anyone else has Myenergi devices (e.g. Zappi), it might be of interest:

https://myenergi.com/libbi/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17579 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17579 Mon, 26 Sep 2022 08:21:13 +0100 Sandfordbarn
Does anyone have any experience applying it directly to stone walls, in particular the blanket rather than the boards. Then direct plaster/lime over that?

I'm keen on this finish as I'd prefer a more irregular finish, rather than flat boards.

I've seen some European company are applying aerogel render externally (with aerogel granules in the render mix), but I've not heard back from any of them.

Any shared experiences on this would be very helpful - it seems to be a revolutionary product?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17501 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17501 Sun, 26 Jun 2022 20:36:29 +0100 djh
But today I noticed that three of the units have died. I haven't investigated yet but I suppose it will be the tubes and I'll be able to replace them from spares. It set me thinking though about my long-term options. I gather ( https://www.auralight.com/en/applications/applications/industry-light/t8-phase-out ) that T5 tubes will be phased out next year and they've become increasingly difficult to source over the years. LEDs have improved to the point where they're about competitive with T5 tubes so I'll probably replace the kitchen lights with a LED scheme. The rest of the house is lit with GU10 LED lamps (5W Crompton) in wall and ceiling surface-mounted fittings.

I'm not sure what to get for the kitchen, so I thought I'd ask for people's ideas and opinions here. I don't like downlights, and the typical triple 5W GU10 fittings elsewhere feel like a bit of a bodge if I fitted them in the kitchen. So what products are there out there that are worth looking at? I do like the idea that the lamps are replaceable within the fittings. I don't especially want to have to do major surgery on the ceiling!]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17278 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17278 Tue, 09 Nov 2021 20:13:36 +0000 jms452 Is it readily available from standard suppliers?
How low-carbon can you go?
Is low-carbon just partial cement replacement with GGBFS or PFA (both of which have limitations) or is there anything better out there?
Are the low carbon versions more expensive & if so by how much?

Thanks in advance

John]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17128 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17128 Mon, 19 Jul 2021 12:06:35 +0100 JulesS https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17063 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=17063 Thu, 20 May 2021 18:33:20 +0100 Jenna
The property is semi detached and has a narrow overhang so the cost of adding EWI is likely to be rather expensive and arguably not worth the cost in terms of the potential u-value improvement.

Thanks all.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16699 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16699 Wed, 02 Sep 2020 14:05:41 +0100 nickbartleet
I've been going around in circles looking at flat roofing options, from economical EPDM £6k to Single Ply PVC £22k, and struggling to make a decision as i know it is an important one. I am concerned with EPDM not lasting due to the glued seams and shrinkage which seems to be the most common complaints. I found a product that a local installer uses called Resitrix, which seems to eliminate my EPDM concerns as it is heat weldable and much thicker than other membranes at 3.2mm. I was hoping to get some insight from people who have installed flat roofs and thoughts on different products.

Here is a link to resitrix (any info from people who have used it would be really helpful).

https://www.resitrix.com]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16719 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16719 Fri, 18 Sep 2020 11:13:37 +0100 djh
We have a Tapworks AD11, a model since replaced by an NSC11PRO I think, and I just reread the instructions. They don't say anything about having to get it serviced, and do say 'all you need to do is top up the salt' and suchlike. So I doubt it should be serviced and don't know what would be done if it was.

Does anybody have any knowledge or experience to offer?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16683 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16683 Sat, 08 Aug 2020 23:12:45 +0100 djh
But I haven't yet found a suitable candidate and would appreciate any other thoughts. I've looked at a few LED battens and LED panels. The main obstacle seems to be efficiency; the fluorescent tubes consume 21 W and produce 1900 lumens and I haven't found anything comparable in LED fittings. Also the CRI is 85 whilst LED products seem to be quoted as 80+; I don't know whether that makes much difference.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16610 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16610 Tue, 16 Jun 2020 06:42:34 +0100 Triassic
I’ve asked the South Wales company for a refund as they have my money and I don’t have a Sunamp and Sunamp have confirmed they don’t have an order from the firm in Wales. If they fail to provide a refund, what should I do next?

Thanks for the help.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16568 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16568 Thu, 21 May 2020 22:41:55 +0100 djh
https://www.techrepublic.com/article/report-smart-bulbs-have-a-major-security-problem/]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16490 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16490 Wed, 11 Mar 2020 20:25:29 +0000 RussellNewall Has anyone else experienced this ?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16398 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16398 Mon, 13 Jan 2020 20:47:41 +0000 ealingbadger
I would quite like to get hold of a suitable product for use here in the UK but, try as I might, I cannot seem to turn up anything that appears to be remotely similar to the types of gun applied materials that are being spread onto buildings in the USA.

What am I missing here?

Does liquid flashing go by a different name here in the UK?

Does it exist but only in tins for brush application?

Any brands that you can recommend I take a look at please?

Does anybody have experience with a gun applied flashing product here in the UK?

Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated.

If I can get it I would prefer to use gun applied flashing rather than using tape. I will need tape as well, but wherever possible I would like to use the liquid applied stuff if at all possible.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3050 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=3050 Sat, 29 Nov 2008 17:30:14 +0000 Mike George https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16305 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16305 Mon, 28 Oct 2019 22:34:55 +0000 IanBaker https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16296 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16296 Mon, 21 Oct 2019 13:56:39 +0100 Silky
https://www.de.weber/circle#

Answers some of my gripes about the WDVS systems. Always hated the thought of destroying the house wall when it has to be removed and the huge waste of having render mixed with reinforcement and the insulation to dispose of. I'm still not sure about these render systems, they never look good to me although maybe that is just the German style.. and still don't like the idea of peppering the existing walls with fixing holes, but there are few ways around that.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16241 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16241 Tue, 10 Sep 2019 21:31:11 +0100 r.simon https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16208 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16208 Thu, 15 Aug 2019 11:39:59 +0100 Sprocket
Our foreman has just suggested that if we're going to tile inside we might be better off with an insulated (and moisture resistant) tile backer board rather than insulated plasterboard. At least in the shower and maybe everywhere. Sounds reasonable I think.

I've looked at products available and nothing jumps out at me as "best bet". Anyone here got any recommendations?

TIA]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16170 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16170 Wed, 10 Jul 2019 22:36:53 +0100 djh
It seems like overhyped greenwash to me, but I'd be interested in any other views.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10945 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=10945 Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:27:02 +0100 Shevek
What do we need to flash into a rainwater pipe?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5421 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5421 Sun, 28 Feb 2010 15:27:52 +0000 owlman https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14292 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14292 Tue, 24 May 2016 19:51:33 +0100 GBP-Keith  
With its mineral basis, lime and cement, Bauwer render is very similar to the traditional renders and plasters, which makes it ideal for use in buildings improvement projects, internally as well as externally. It can readily be applied by any experienced plasterer using standard equipment.
 
The knowledge behind Bauwer’s insulating render and plaster is based on simple processes applied to naturally occurring minerals called Perlite and Vermiculite. Rapidly heating perlite ore to temperatures of about 900°C softens the volcanic glass causing entrapped water molecules in the rock to turn to steam and expand the particles like popcorn. The expanded particles are clusters of minute, lightweight, insulating, glass bubbles. Sophisticated manufacturing techniques allow the expansion and collection of individual perlite bubbles, which are used as fillers within Bauwer Insulation. These minute pores make Bauwer an excellent insulation material for use in a variety of different applications which are two to three times more cost efficient than traditional render due to the lightweight nature of Bauwer.

A further advantage of Bauwer insulation is that the wall remains permeable to water vapour. Bauwer Insulation is significantly more breathable than conventional plasters, and hence it is able to withstand fluctuations in internal and external humidity which helps prevent any damp or mould issues.
 
Perlite and vermiculite do not emit any odours and are resistant to chemical and biological environmental effects. Bauwer insulation contains no organics, is chemically inert, biologically stable, non-toxic, harmless and entirely safe. Perlite and vermiculite minerals are used in water filtration and horticulture industries as well, due to their lightweight structure and non-toxic, inert nature.
 
The first building in the UK plastered by Bauwer was in central London, Carlton Hill. The cost saving vs traditional plaster was about 40%.

Read more at: http://bauwer.co.uk]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15683 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15683 Fri, 20 Apr 2018 13:19:26 +0100 djh
http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=9731

This is an update about the render beads. I used the Wemico ones that were discussed (I see their website now actively blocks me from looking at it because I don't have Javascript enabled, so I'm not going to post a link). They were very good at build time, working well to finish the render neatly and simultaneously protect the window. For the most part they still look good and are working well.

However, there's one window (actually a sliding patio door) that faces south and gets a lot of sun where the render bead has pulled away from the window and opened a gap of a few mm. So I'm going to need to fill the gap with some mastic or silicone etc. I'm just letting the area dry out in the sun.

I think what's happened is that the render has moved a bit, presumably because the straw behind it has moved a bit. So I don't think any amount of stickiness would have kept it in place, or another way to put it something had to give and I'm glad it was the adhesive.

And I'm very glad my sills did have upstands on the end! (not that there's one under the door)]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15633 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15633 Tue, 20 Mar 2018 21:43:25 +0000 djh
Does anybody have any experience of these, good or bad? I'm just looking for basic switching and low-power mains control. I'm not interested in 'smart' controls or dimmers, for example. I've found Acegoo and Quinetic brand products that don't need batteries and there are X-10 products that do need batteries. Are there others? Which are any good?]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15548 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15548 Fri, 02 Feb 2018 16:30:28 +0000 Doubting_Thomas
However, I'm aware that I need to treat the ply with something to make it properly 'external grade' as the marine spec just refers to the glues.

Some online research has suggested something called Butinox but the best grade appears to have been discontinued (I guess due to the solvents involved). I'm also wary of using anything oil-based that my window installers will need to stick their membranes onto as I'm guessing the glues won't be warrantied for that kind of substrate.

How have others using the ply approach finished their timber?

n.b. The ply will be fully concealed by internal and external reveal boards and sill, so appearance is not my priority. I just want something that will preserve the wood from moisture (and in the event of a leak) and that the pro clima tapes will stick to well.

Thanks in advance.]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15549 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15549 Fri, 02 Feb 2018 23:09:26 +0000 RedDoor https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15515 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15515 Sun, 21 Jan 2018 12:18:44 +0000 chrip
As the house is being stripped back to solid walls and timber now is probably a good time to plan for this]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12281 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=12281 Sun, 29 Jun 2014 16:38:55 +0100 Shevek https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15438 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15438 Wed, 06 Dec 2017 18:30:42 +0000 Doubting_Thomas
I've used it in this arrangement for brickwork cavity walls before and then placed something like XPS in the below DPC area. My current timber rainscreen detail (below) therefore swaps out the lowest band of Rockwool for a 350mm plinth of XPS in the knowledge this is less permeable.

How paranoid am I being, though? It would be far simpler to take the same insulation all the way to ground, but clearly I'm keen to not build in a recipe for damp further down the line. Particularly with a timber internal structure.

NB. external ground levels will slope away from the building more than is shown here...]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11503 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=11503 Fri, 06 Dec 2013 16:50:21 +0000 woodgnome Need some for thresholds in new build and would like to compare prices.

Thanks]]> https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15319 https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=15319 Thu, 28 Sep 2017 17:23:07 +0100 rsk1